Sunday, June 01, 2008

French home cooking: old meets new

Over the weekend de Pentecôte a few weeks back, we took a trip to see long-standing friends in Pamiers in the Ariège department, and then stopped in Dourgne in the Montagne Noire area of the Tarn department to see other long-standing friends.

Both treated us to delicious meals, but there was a clear generational difference. The Pamiers pals, of our generation, naturally have taken on the current French cooking style: lighter starters, an emphasis on presentation rather than quantity, individual servings.

The above scallop carpaccio served with artichoke hearts, lettuce, herbs and edible flowers was a work of art and a treat for the palate.

Our friends in Dourgne are in their eighties. Formerly charcutiers, or pork butchers who also specialized in pâtés, sausages and ready-made dishes, they carry on a rapidly-dying tradition of huge Sunday lunches abounding with simple but entirely homemade dishes.

A meal with them is an experience in abundance, generosity, and the culinary habits of a bygone area. Whenever we eat there, my daughters start counting. "There are five starters! Four desserts!"

These were the starters they served this time -- and it was a relatively modest spread compared to some meals we have enjoyed with them:

This time we feasted on three main starters, not counting the olives thrown in for good measure: cold beet salad, a delicious pâté, and this tray of macédoine de légumes, hard-boiled eggs, and cold ham stuffed with the macédoine:


Now remember, I'm talking starters here. A meal with these friends is an experience in pacing oneself -- and of course, they feel we never really eat enough.

Two different French culinary worlds -- and one that will certainly disappear with time.

5 comments:

eleonora said...

Coucou Betty..c'est vrai que si vos amis sont de tradition dans la charcuterie, il y a le régal des bonnes choses faites maison...Il n'y a presque plus le temps même le dimanche d'être à table 4 heures...Mais j'aime bien cette table ou tu as envie de piocher dedans et tu passes un moment agréable...celle du partage des choses simples...Bonne semaine à toi Betty...

Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) said...

How lucky you are to have such special friends -- time spent with them must be a true joy, no matter what's on the menu.

renae du jour said...

Both meals look wonderful. What a lovely time you must have had.

spacedlaw said...

Both tables were made with love, that's for sure.
I think the heavier one is going to disappear also (either that or we might), a shame really because of its slow food attraction. But indeed, as Eleonora said, we seems not to have really the time to spend 4 hours eating on Sunday anymore (not sure why actually).

Alison said...

I'll take good old fashioned hearty French food over presentation any day! How lucky you are to have such nice friends (who are good cooks!)